Инструкция по ремонту detroit diesel

Любые запчасти в наличии для ремонта двигателей.

В наличии всегда много запчастей для автомобилей Freighliner, Volvo, International, Kenworth, Peterbilt, Mack и Sterling.

Detroit Diesel, 

Cummins, 

Caterpillar, 

International DT-466

FIG. 4 — Typical Engine Serial Number and

Model Number As Stamped on Cylinder Block

The engine serial number and the engine model number are stamped on the right rear side of the cylinder block (Fig. 4). This applies to former 6 and 8V-71 engines and current 12V-71 engines. To allow for easier engine serial number and model number identification on 6 and 8V-71 engines the location has been moved to the upper right front corner of the block.

NOTE: The 12V and 16V-71 engine identification will continue to be stamped at the former location, the right rear side of the cylinder block.

An option plate, attached to one of the valve rocker covers, is also stamped with the engine serial number and model number and. in addition, lists any optional

FIG. 5 — Option Plate

equipment used on the engine (Fig. 5).

An exhaust emission certification label. separate from the option plate. is mounted permanently in the option plate retainer. The current label includes information relating to an engine family for the maximum fuel injector size and maximum speed. Due to Federal regulations, the exhaust emission plate should not be removed. from the rocker cover. Refer to Section 14 for further information regarding emission regulations.

With any order for parts, the engine model number and serial number must be given. In addition, if a type number is shown on the option plate covering the equipment required, this number should also be included on the parts order.

All groups of parts used on an engine are standard for the engine model unless otherwise listed on the option plate.

The purpose of parts inspection is to determine which parts can be used and which must be replaced.

Although the engine overhaul specifications given throughout the text will aid in determining which parts should be replaced, considerable judgment must be exercised by the inspector.

The guiding factors in determining the usability of worn parts, which are otherwise in good condition, is the clearance between the mating parts and the rate of wear on each of the parts. If it is determined that the rate of wear will maintain the clearances within the specified maximum allowable until the next overhaul period, the reinstallation of used parts may be justified. Rate of wear of a part is determined by dividing the amount the part has worn by the hours it has operated.

Many service replacement parts are available in various undersize and/or oversize as well as standard sizes. Also, service kits for reconditioning certain parts and service sets which include all of the parts necessary to complete a particular repair job are available.

A complete discussion of the proper methods of precision measuring and inspection are outside the scope of this manual. However, every shop should be equipped with standard gages, such as dial bore gages, dial indicators, and inside and outside micrometers.

In addition to measuring the used parts after cleaning, the parts should be carefully inspected for cracks, scoring, chipping and other defects. Following cleaning and inspection, the engine should be assembled using new parts as determined by the inspection.

Following cleaning and inspection, the engine should be assembled using new parts as determined by the inspection.

Use of the proper equipment and tools makes the job progress faster and produces better results. Likewise, a suitable working space with proper lighting must be provided. The time and money invested in providing the proper tools, equipment and space will be repaid many times.

Keep the working space, the equipment, tools and engine assemblies and parts clean at all times. The area where assembly operations take place should, if possible, be located away from the disassembly and cleaning operation. Also, any machining operations should be removed as far as possible from the assembly area.

Particular attention should be paid to storing of parts and sub-assemblies, after removal and cleaning and prior to assembly, in such a place or manner as to keep them clean. If there is any doubt as to the cleanliness of such parts, they should be recleaned.

When assembling an engine or any part thereof, refer to the table of torque specifications at the end of each section for proper bolt, nut and stud torques.

To ensure a clean engine at time of rebuild, it is important that any plug, fitting or fastener (including studs) that intersects with a through hole and comes in contact with oil, fuel or coolant must have a sealer

applied to the threads. A number of universal sealers are commercially available. It is recommended that Loctite J 26558-92 pipe sealer with teflon, or equivalent, be used.

NOTE: Certain plugs, fittings and fastener available from the Parts Depot already have a sealer applied to the threads. This pre-coating will not be affected when the pipe sealer with teflon is also applied.

IMPORTANT: The sealer information above must not be confused with International Compound No. 2, which is a lubricant applied before tightening certain bolts. Use International Compound No. 2 only where specifically stated in the manual.

A serviceman can be severely injured if caught in the pulleys, belts or fan of an engine that is accidentally started. To avoid such a misfortune, take these precautions before starting to work on an engine:

Disconnect the battery from the starting system by removing one or both of the battery cables. With the electrical circuit disrupted, accidental contact with the

Some Safety Precautions To Observe When Working

On The Engine

1.Consider the hazards of the job and wear protective gear such as safety glasses, safety shoes, hard hat, etc. to provide adequate protection.

2.When lifting an engine, make sure the lifting device is fastened securely. Be sure the item to be lifted does not exceed the capacity of the lifting device.

3.Always use caution when using power tools.

4.When using compressed air to clean a component, such as flushing a radiator or cleaning an air cleaner element, use a safe amount of air. Recommendations regarding the use of air are indicated throughout the manual. Too much air can rupture or in some other way damage a component and create a hazardous situation that can lead to personal injury.

5.Avoid the use of carbon tetrachloride as a cleaning

starter button will not produce an engine start.

Make sure the mechanism provided at the governor for stopping the engine is in the stop position. This will mean the governor is in the no-fuel position. The possibility of the engine firing by accidentally turning the fan or by being bumped by another vehicle is minimized.

agent because of the harmful vapors that it releases. Use perchlorethylene or trichlorethylene. However, while less toxic than other chlorinated solvents, use these cleaning agents with caution. Be sure the work area is adequately ventilated and use protective gloves, goggles or face shield and an apron. Exercise caution against burns when using oxalic acid to clean the cooling passages of the engine.

6.Use caution when welding on or near the fuel tank. Possible explosion could result if heat build-up inside the tank is sufficient.

7.Avoid excessive injection of ether into the engine during start attempts. Follow the instructions on the container or by the manufacturer of the starting aid.

8.When working on an engine that is running, accidental contact with the hot exhaust manifold can cause severe burns. Remain alert to the location of the rotating fan, pulleys and belts. Avoid making contact across the two terminals of a battery which can result in severe arcing.

The cylinder block (Fig. 1) serves as the main structural part of the engine. Transverse webs provide rigidity and strength and ensure alignment of the block bores and bearings under load.

The block is bored to receive replaceable cylinder liners. The current cylinder block is designated as a water-below- port block and is designed to provide water cooling below the air inlet port belt. The former cylinder block was designated as a dry block.

An air box between the cylinder banks and extending around the cylinders at the air inlet port belt conducts the air from the blower to the cylinders. Air box openings on each side of the block permit inspection of the pistons and compression rings through the air inlet ports in the cylinder liners. The air box openings in the current cylinder block assembly are approximately 1 7/8″ x 3 1/8″ and are covered with cast covers (Fig. 2). The stamped steel covers used on the former cylinder block covered openings which were approximately 3″ x 6 1/2″. To prevent leakage at the air box covers, new gaskets and

bolts are now being used. The new polyacrylic and cork gaskets replace the former asbestos gaskets. The

new lock and seal coated bolt replaces a stud, nut, flat washer and lock washer. The former and new gaskets are interchangeable on an engine, but only the new gaskets are serviced.

The camshaft bores are located on the inner side of each cylinder bank near the top of the block.

The upper halves of the main bearing supports are cast integral with the block. The main bearing bores are linebored with the bearing caps in place to ensure longitudinal alignment. Drilled passages in the block carry the lubricating oil to all moving parts of the engine, eliminating the need for external piping.

The top surface of each cylinder bank is grooved to accommodate a block-to-head oil seal ring. Also, each water or oil hole is counterbored to provide for individual seal rings.

Each cylinder liner is retained in the block by a flange at its upper end. The liner flange rests on an insert located in the counterbore in the block bore. An individual compression gasket is used at each cylinder.

When the cylinder heads are installed, the gaskets and seal rings compress sufficiently to form a tight metal-to- metal contact between the heads and the block.

New service replacement cylinder block assemblies include the main bearing caps and bolts, dowels and the

FIG. 3 Engine Mounted on Overhaul Stand

necessary plugs. Since the cylinder block is the main structural part of the engine, the various subassemblies must be removed from the cylinder block when an engine is overhauled.

The hydraulically operated overhaul stand (Fig. 3) provides a convenient support when stripping a cylinder block. The engine is mounted in an upright position. It may then be tipped on its side, rotated in either direction 90°or 180°where it is locked in place and then, if desired, tipped back with either end or the oil pan side up.

Remove and Disassemble Engine

Before mounting an engine on an overhaul stand, it must be removed from the vehicle and disconnected from the transmission. Details of this procedure will vary from one application to another. However, the following steps will be necessary.

1.Drain the cooling system.

2.Drain the lubricating oil.

3.Disconnect the fuel lines.

4.Remove the air cleaner and mounting brackets.

5.Remove the turbocharger, if used.

6.Disconnect the exhaust piping and remove the exhaust manifolds.

7.Disconnect the throttle controls.

8.Disconnect and remove the starting motor, batterycharging generator or alternator and other electrical equipment.

9.Remove the air compressor, if used.

10.Remove the radiator and fan guard and other related cooling system parts.

11.Remove the air box drain tubes and fittings

12.Remove the air box covers.

13.Disconnect any other lubricating oil lines, fuel lines or electrical connections.

14.Separate the engine from the transmission

15.Remove the engine mounting bolts.

16.Use a spreader bar with a suitable sling and adequate chain hoist to lift the engine from its base (Fig. 4). To prevent bending of the engine lifter brackets the lifting device should be adjusted so the lifting hooks are vertical. To ensure proper weight distribution, all engine lifter brackets should be used to lift the engine

NOTE: Do not lift the engine by the webs in the air inlet opening at the top of the cylinder block.

17. Mount the engine on the overhaul stand. For 6V and 8V engines, use overhaul stand J 6837-C with adaptor J 860101. For 12V engines, use overhaul stand J 9389-04 and adaptor J 8650.

CAUTION: Check the fastenings carefully to be sure the engine is securely mounted to the overhaul stand before releasing the lifting sling. Severe injury to personnel and destruction of engine parts will result if the engine breaks away from the overhaul stand.

18. With the engine mounted on the overhaul stand, remove all of the remaining subassemblies and parts from the cylinder block.

The procedure for removing each subassembly from the cylinder block, together with disassembly, inspection, repair and reassembly of each, will be found in the various sections of this manual.

After stripping, the cylinder block must be thoroughly cleaned and inspected.

Clean Cylinder Block

Scrape all gasket material from the cylinder block. Then remove all oil gallery plugs and core hole plugs (except cup plugs) to allow the cleaning solution to contact the inside of the oil and water passages. This permits more efficient cleaning and eliminates the possibility of’ the cleaning solution attacking the aluminum core hole plug gaskets (if used).

If a core hole plug is difficult to remove, hold a 3/4″ drift against the plug and give it a few sharp blows with a one pound hammer. With a 1/2″ flexible handle and a short extension placed in the countersunk hole in the plug, turn the plug slightly in the direction of tightening. Then turn it in the opposite direction and back the plug out.

Clean the cylinder block as follows:

1.Remove the grease by agitating the cylinder block in a hot bath of commercial heavy-duty alkaline solution.

2.Wash the block in hot water or steam clean it to remove the alkaline solution.

3.It the water jackets are heavily scaled, proceed as s: follow

a.Agitate the block in a bath of inhibited commercial pickling acid.

b.Allow the block to remain in the acid bath until the bubbling stops (approximately 30 minutes).

c.Lift the block, drain it and reimmerse it in the same acid solution for 10 minutes.

d.Repeat Step «C» until all scale is removed.

e.Rinse the block in clear hot water to remove the acid solution

f.Neutralize the acid that may cling to the casting by immersing the block in an alkaline bath.

g.Wash the block in clean water or steam clean it.

4.Dry the cylinder block with compressed air

5.Make certain that all water passages, oil galleries and air box drain openings have been thoroughly cleaned.

NOTE: The above cleaning procedure may be used on all ordinary cast iron and steel parts of the engine. Mention will be made of special cleaning procedures whenever necessary.

6. After the block has been cleaned and dried, coat the threads of the plugs and the gaskets with clean engine oil and reinstall the air box core hole plugs or adaptor plug. Tighten the 1 3/4″-16 plugs to 150-180 Ib-ft (204-244 Nm) torque. Tighten the 2 1/2″-16 plugs or water inlet adaptor plug (if used) to 230-270 Ib-ft (312366 Nm) torque using tool J 23019.

A water inlet adaptor plug and gasket replaces the rear (flywheel housing end) 2 1/2″ core hole plug in the cylinder block air box floor on engines built with an aftercooler (refer to Section 3.5.3). Use tool J 25275 to install or remove this adaptor plug. Lubricate with clean engine oil and tighten the adaptor plug to 230270 Ib-ft (312-366 Nm) torque.

NOTE: Excessive torque applied to the core hole plugs may result in cracks in the water jacket.

If for any reason the cup plugs in the water jackets were removed, install new plugs as follows:

a.Clean the cup plug holes and apply Permatex No. I sealant, or equivalent, to the outer diameter of the plugs.

b.Drive the plugs in place with handle J 7079-2 and adaptor J 24597 (2 1/2″ diameter plugs, Fig. 5) adaptor J 21849 (for 2″ diameter plugs) or adaptor J 21850 (for I 5/8″ diameter plugs).

c.Drive the aftercooler adaptor plug in place, using tool J 28711.

Pressure Test Cylinder Block

After the cylinder block has been cleaned, it must be pressure tested for cracks or leaks by either one of two methods.

METHOD «A»

This method may be used when a large enough water tank is available and the cylinder block is completely stripped of all parts.

1. Seal off the water inlet and outlet holes air tight. This can be done by using steel plates and suitable rubber gaskets held in place by bolts. Drill and tap one cover plate to provide a connection for an air line.

NOTE: A new service tool (J 29571) has been released to aid in pressure testing V-71 aftercooled engine cylinder blocks. When properly installed, the new tool sealsoff the aftercooler water inlet adaptor plug in the air box floor.

2.Immerse the block for twenty minutes in a tank of water heated to 180-200 F (82-93 °C).

3.Apply 40 psi (276 kPa) air pressure to the water jacket and observe the water in the tank for bubbles which’ indicate the presence of cracks or leaks in the block. A cracked cylinder block must be replaced by a new block.

4.After the pressure test is completed, remove the block from the water tank. Then remove the plates and gaskets and dry the block with compressed air.

METHOD «B»

This method may be used when a large water tank is unavailable, or when it is desired to check the block for cracks without removing the engine from the

vehicle. However, it is necessary to remove the cylinder heads, blower, oil cooler, air box covers and oil pan.

1.Attach sealing plates and gaskets as in Method «A». However, before attaching the last sealing plate, fill the water jacket with a mixture of water and one gallon of antifreeze. The antifreeze will penetrate small cracks and its color will aid in detecting their presence.

2.Install the remaining sealing plate and tighten it securely.

3.Apply 40 psi (276 kPa) air pressure to the water jacket and maintain this pressure for at least two hours to give the water and antifreeze mixture ample time to work its way through any cracks which may exist.

4.At the end of the test period, examine the cylinder bores, air box, oil passages, crankcase and exterior of the block for presence of the water and antifreeze mixture which will indicate the presence of cracks. A cracked cylinder block must be replaced by a new block.

FIG. 6 Honing Cylinder Block Bore

5. After the test is completed, remove the plates, drain the water jacket and blow out all of the passages in the block with compressed air.

Inspect Cylinder Block

After cleaning and pressure testing, inspect the cylinder block.

Since most of the engine cooling is accomplished by heat transfer through the cylinder liners to the water jacket, a good liner-to-block contact must exist when the engine is operating. Whenever the cylinder liners are removed from an engine, the block bores must be inspected.

NOTE: Before attempting to check the block bores, hone them throughout their entire length until about 75% of the area above the ports has been «cleaned-up».

1. Hone the block bores as follows:

a.Use a hone in which the cutting radius of the stones can be set in a fixed position to remove

irregularities in the bore rather than following the irregularities as with a spring-loaded hone. Clean

the stones frequently with a wire brush to prevent

stone loading. Follow the hone manufacturer’s instructions regarding the use of oil or kerosene on the stones. Do not use such cutting agents with a dry hone. Use 120 grit stones J 5902-14.

b.Insert the hone in the bore and adjust the stones snugly to the narrowest section (Fig. 6). When correctly adjusted, the hone will not shake in the bore, but will drag freely up and down the bore when the hone is not running.

c.Start the hone and «feel out» the bore for high spots which will cause an increased drag on the stones. Move the hone up and down the bore with short overlapping strokes about I » long. Concentrate on the high spots in the first cut. As these are removed, the drag on the hone will become lighter and smoother. Do not hone as long at the air inlet port area as in the rest of the bore because this area, as a rule, cuts away more rapidly. Feed lightly to avoid an excessive increase in the bore diameter. Some stones cut rapidly even under low tension.

the hone and makes it difficult to feel the high spots. Therefore, use a light cut with frequent stone adjustments.

e.Wash the cylinder block thoroughly after the honing operation is completed.

2. The cylinder liner is alternately expanding and contracting, during engine operation, due to temperature variations. This may result in irregularities in the block bores (out-of-round and taper), the effects of which will be seen as high pressure areas on the outside diameter of the cylinder liner (Fig. 7). A slight increase in block bore size is normal with high mileage or long periods of engine operation.

If a new liner and piston is installed in the block without properly fitting the liner, galling and seizing of the piston may result. This is caused by the new piston having to travel over the irregularities without time to conform to the particular shape of the block bore.

Check the cylinder block bores as follows:

a.Visually check the contact area as revealed by the honed surface. There must not be any low spots which are larger in area than a half dollar.

FIG. 9 Cylinder Block Bore Measurement

Diagram

b.Measure the entire bore of each cylinder with cylinder bore gage J 5347-01 (Fig. which has a dial indicator calibrated in .0001 “increments. The standard block bore is 4.6260”to 4.6275”. Place the bore gage in the master ring gage

J 8386-01 which has an I.D. of 4.6270”and set the dial to zero. Take measurements on the cleaned-up surface only at positions A, B, C, D, E and F in the bore on axes 45°apart (Fig. 9). Read the measurements from the zero mark on the gage. The readings may be recorded on a form similar to the one illustrated (Fig. 10).

NOTE: Dial bore gage setting master tool

J 23059-01 may be used in place of the master ring gage.

3. The liner-to-block clearance with new parts is zero to .0015”. With used parts, the maximum clearance is

.0025”. After measuring the block bores, measure the outside diameter of the cylinder liners (Section 1.6.3). Then determine the block-to-liner clearance (refer to

FIG. 10 Block Bore Measurement Record

Form

Section 1.0 for the specified clearances) and whether it will be necessary to bore the block for oversize cylinder liners.

4. If necessary, bore the cylinder block as follows:

a.Each bore in a used block must not be out-of- round or tapered more than .002”. If the average block bore is over 4.6285”, the block should be bored oversize (refer to Tables I and 2).

TABLE 1

TABLE 2

b.A typical commercially available portable boring bar is illustrated in Fig. 11. Instructions on correct use of the boring bar are provided by the manufacturer.

c.After boring the block for an oversize cylinder liner, check the bore finish to be sure it is smooth (120 RMS). Heat transfer from the cylinder liner to the block will be adversely affected if the block isn’t smooth.

d.Wash the block thoroughly after the boring operation.

e.When an oversize liner is used, stamp the size of the liner on the top deck of the block adjacent to the liner counterbore. An oversize liner insert

FIG. 11 — Portable Boring Bar

must be installed whenever an oversize liner is used (Section 1.6.3).

5. Check the top of the block (cylinder head contact surfaces) for flatness with an accurate straight edge and a feeler gage (Fig. 12).

a.The cylinder head contact surfaces of the block must not vary more than .003″ transversely and not over .006″ (6V), .007″ (8V) or .009″ (12V) longitudinally. It will be difficult to prevent water, oil and compression leaks if these surfaces exceed these tolerances.

b.If it is necessary to machine these surfaces to correct for the above conditions, do not remove more than .008″ of metal. Stamp the amount of stock removed on the face of the block. The distance from the centerline of the crankshaft to the top of the cylinder head surface of the block must not be less than 16.176″ (Fig. 13).

c.If stock is removed from the cylinder head contact surfaces of the block, check the depth of the seal

FIG. 12 — Checking Top Surface of Cylinder

Block

ring grooves and counterbores. The cylinder head seal strip grooves must be .092″ — .107″ deep. The large water hole counterbores (between the

FIG. 13 — Minimum Distance from Centerline of Crankshaft to Top of Cylinder Block

FIG. 14 Checking Depth of Counterbore with Toot J 22273

cylinders) must be .109″ — .120″ deep, and the combination water and oil hole counterbores and small water hole counterbores must be .087″ —

.098″ deep. If necessary, deepen the grooves or counterbores to the specified limits to retain the proper «crush» on the seal rings. It is not necessary to deepen the counterbores for the cylinder liners since .004″ and .008″ undersize thickness inserts are available for adjusting the liner position as outlined in Section 1.6.3 under

Fitting Cylinder Liner in Block Bore.

6. Make sure the cylinder liner counterbores in the block are clean and free of dirt. Then check the depth

FIG. 15 — Cylinder Block Markings

(Fig. 14). The depth must be .4770″ to .4795’a and must not vary more than .0015″ throughout the entire circumference. The counterbored surfaces must be smooth and square with the cylinder bore within .001 » total indicator reading. There must not be over .001″ difference between any two adjacent cylinder counterbores when measured along the cylinder longitudinal centerline of the cylinder block.

7. Check the main bearing bores as follows:

a.Check the bore diameters with the main bearing caps in their original positions. Bearing caps are numbered to correspond with their respective positions in the cylinder block. It is imperative that the bearing caps are reinstalled in their original positions to maintain the main bearing bore alignment. The number of the front main bearing cap is also stamped on the face of the oil pan mounting flange of the cylinder block, adjacent to its permanent location in the engine as established at the time of manufacture. The No. I main bearing cap is always located at the end opposite the flywheel end of the cylinder block (Fig. 15). Lubricate the bolt threads and bolt head contact areas with a small quantity of International Compound No. 2, or equivalent. Then install and tighten the bolts to 165-175 Ib-ft (224-238 Nm) torque. When making this check, do not install the main bearing cap stabilizers. The specified bore diameter is 4.812″, to 4.813′. If the bores do not fall within these limits, the cylinder block must be rejected.

NOTE: Main bearing cap bolts are especially designed for this purpose and must not be replaced by ordinary bolts.

b.Finished and unfinished main bearing caps are available for replacing broken or damaged caps. When fitting a finished replacement bearing cap, it may be necessary to try several caps before one will be found to provide the correct bore diameter and bore alignment. If a replacement bearing cap is installed, be sure to stamp the correct bearing position number on the cap.

NOTE: Use the unfinished bearing caps for the front and intermediate bearing positions. The finished bearing caps, machined for the crankshaft thrust washers, are to be used in the rear bearing position.

c.Main bearing bores are line-bored with the bearing caps in place and thus are in longitudinal alignment. If a main bearing bore is more than

.001″ maximum overall misalignment or .0005″ maximum misalignment between adjacent bores the block must be line-bored (see Section 1.0) or scrapped. Misalignment may be caused by a broken crankshaft, excessive heat or other damage.

d.If the main bearing bores are not in alignment

when a replacement bearing cap is used, the block must be line-bored (see Section 1.0).

8.Refer to the Cylinder Block Plugging Chart shown as a fold-out at the end of this manual and install the necessary plugs and dowels.

9.Replace loose or damaged dowel pins. The dowels at the ends of the cylinder block must extend .630″.

The dowels used to retain the crankshaft thrust washers on the rear main bearing cap must extend

.110″ to .120 » from the surface of the bearing cap.

NOTE: A stepped dowel pin is available to replace loose pins in the rear main bearing cap. Before installing the stepped pins, rebore the dowel holes in the bearing cap with a No. II (.1910″) or No. 12 (.1890″) drill. After pressing the pins into the bearing cap, remove all burrs from the base of the dowel pins to ensure proper seating of the thrust washers.

10. If used, replace damaged or broken cylinder head studs. Drive new studs to a height of 4 3/8″ ± 1/32″ above the block at a minimum of 75 Ib-ft (102 Nm) torque. Also examine the cylinder head retaining bolt holes. If the threads are damaged, use a tap to «cleanup» the threads or install a helical thread insert.

I 1. The tapped holes in the water-below-port cylinder blocks may be tapped with a 5/8″-l I UNC3B thread tap. The stud holes and unplugged bolt holes must have the thread extending 1.850″ below the block surface. If the bolt hole in the block is plugged, the plug must be a minimum of 2.040″ below the surface of the block and threaded the full distance (1.920″ on blocks prior to January, 1975). When replacing a bolt hole plug in the current water-below-port block, refer to Shop Notes in Section 1.0.

12.Check the remaining cylinder block surfaces and threaded holes. Check all of the mating surfaces, or mounting pads, for flatness, nicks and burrs. Clean-up damaged threads in tapped holes with a tap or install helical thread inserts, if necessary.

13.After inspection, if the cylinder block is not to be used immediately, spray the machined surfaces with engine oil. If the block is to be stored for an extended period of time, spray or dip it in a polar type rust preventive such as Valvoline Oil Company’s «Tectyl 502-C», or equivalent. Castings free of grease or oil will rust when exposed to the atmosphere.

Assemble and Install Engine

After the cylinder block has been cleaned and inspected, assemble the engine as follows:

NOTE: Before a reconditioned or new service replacement cylinder block is used, steam clean it to remove the rust preventive and blow out the oil galleries with compressed air.

1.Mount the cylinder block on the overhaul stand.

2.If a new service replacement block is used, stamp the engine serial number and model number on the right-hand side of the cylinder block. Also stamp the position numbers on the main bearing caps (Fig. 15) and the position of the No. I bearing on the oil pan mounting flange of the block.

3.Install all of the required cylinder block plugs and drain cocks. Use a good grade of non-hardening sealant on the threads of the plugs and drain cocks. Install the plugs flush with or below the surface of the block.

NOTE: Make sure the cup plug, which blocks the oil cooler adaptor inlet from the adaptor outlet, is installed in the vertical passage.

4.Check the cam pocket drain hole spring pin (if used) in the front end of the block to be sure it is installed with the slot up.

5.Clean and inspect all engine parts and subassemblies and, using new parts as required, install them on the cylinder block by reversing the sequence of disassembly. The procedures for inspecting and installing the various parts and subassemblies are outlined in the following sections of this manual.

6.Use a chain hoist and suitable sling to transfer the engine to a dynamometer test stand.

7.Complete the engine build-up by installing all remaining accessories, fuel lines, electrical connections, controls etc.

8.Operate the engine on a dynamometer, following

the run-in procedure outlined in Section 13.2.1.

9. Reinstall the engine in the vehicle.

A flat steel plate, one bolted to each end of the cylinder block, provides a support for the flywheel housing at the rear and the balance weight cover at the front of the engine. Gaskets are used between the block and each end plate.

Inspection

When an end plate is removed, it is essential that all of the old gasket material be removed from both surfaces of the end plate and the cylinder block. Clean the end plate as outlined under Clean Cylinder Block in Section 1. 1.

Inspect both surfaces of each end plate for nicks, dents, scratches or score marks and check the end plates for warpage. Check the plug nuts in the end plates for cracks or damaged threads. If nicks or scratches on the sealing surfaces of the end plates are too deep to be cleaned up, or the plug nuts are damaged, replace the end plates or plug nuts.

When installing a plug nut, support the end plate on a solid flat surface to avoid distorting the plate. Then press the nut in the end plate until the head on the nut seats on the end plate.

Install Cylinder Block Breather Pads

A new breather pad, designed to improve crankcase ventilation, was used beginning with engine 6VA16943, 8VA-7508 and 12VA-2332.

The new pad differs from the two former pads in width only. To compensate for the decrease in width,

two retainers have been provided to hold the new pads in the cavities behind the cylinder block rear end plate (Fig. 2).

NOTE: Turbocharged engines do not require breather pads.

After cleaning the breather pads and prior to installing the cylinder block rear end plate, reinstall the breather pads and retainers, if used, in the block as shown in Fig. 2.

NOTE: Since the former breather pads were not the same size, be sure to reinstall them in their original locations.

The end plates, when assembled to -the block, will apply pressure on the retainers and hold the pads in position.

FIG. 2 — Current Breather Pads and Retainers

Installed in Cylinder Block

Install End Plates

1.Affix new gaskets to the ends of the cylinder block, using a non-hardening gasket cement. Also apply an even coating of gasket cement to the outer surface of each gasket (the surface next to the end plate). Also attach the small round gasket to the corner at the front end of the cylinder block (Fig. 1).

∙NOTE: Do not use the V-92 gasket on engines built prior to January, 1977. Use the V-71 front end plate gasket that has been reinstated for service.

2.Attach the front end plate to the cylinder block with bolts and lock washers. Tighten the bolts finger tight.

3.Wipe the excess gasket cement from the bores in the end plate and the cylinder block.

4.Insert the right bank camshaft end bearing through the SMALL bearing bore in the end plate and into the bore of the block to accurately align the end plate with the cylinder block as shown in Fig. 3.

FIG. 3 — Installing Front End Plate (8V Engine)

NOTE: The holes in the front and rear end plates for the camshaft end bearings are not the same size. The smaller hole is accurately machined for alignment purposes and is always located on the right side of the engine as viewed from the rear.

5. With the bearing in place. tighten the 1/2″-13 end plate-to-cylinder block bolts to 71-75 Ib-ft (96-102 Nm) torque. Tighten the 3/8″-16 bolts to 3(0-35 Ib-ft (41-47 Nm) torque. Then remove the camshaft bearing which served as a pilot while attaching the front end plate.

NOTE: On former blocks, tighten the 3/8″-16 bolts which thread into the special water jacket plugs in the cylinder block to 20-25 lb-ft (27-34 Nm) torque. On certain engines, a special washer is used with these bolts.

6. Install the rear end plate in the same manner as outlined above for the front end plate.

NOTE: If used, attach the small cover to the cylinder block side of the rear end plate with two bolts and copper washers prior to installing the end plate. Use a new gasket between the cover and the end plate.

7. Trim off any excess gasket material.

During normal engine operation, water vapor from the air charge, as well as a slight amount of fuel and lubricating oil fumes, condenses and settles on the bottom of the air box. This condensation is removed by the air box pressure through air box drain tubes mounted on the sides of the cylinder block (Fig. 1, 2 or 3).

Air box drains must be kept open at all times, otherwise water and oil that may accumulate will be drawn into the cylinders.

Certain 6 and 8V upright engines have the air box drain tubes routed to the crankcase at the rear dipstick holes at each side of the engine, rather than to the atmosphere (Fig. 2).

In conjunction with the new drain tubes, a check (control) valve has been installed in the air box drain fitting on each side of the engine to allow drainage only at Iow air box pressures.

The check valve cutaway shows the valve operating at engine idle speed (Figs. 2 and 3). As the engine speed and air box pressure increase, the valve moves forward and seats, blocking air-flow. The check valve is only serviced as an assembly.

Effective with engines built approximately June, 1981,

the air box drains are being routed to the atmosphere (Fig. 3). Engines which have a closed air box drain system (Fig. 2) can be equipped with an open air box system (Fig. 3) — see Shop Notes in Section I.0.

Inspection

A periodic check for air flow from the air box drain tubes should be made (refer to Section 15. 1).

NOTE: Engines built prior to January 18, 1979 which use a 1/8″-18 pipe nipple in the sides of the air box drain system should be kept open. If plugged, this could cause a loss of engine lubricating oil.

Inspect the check valve for proper operation as follows:

1.Disconnect the drain tube from the check valve.

2.Run the engine and note the airflow through the valve at idle speed.

3.If the check valve is operating properly, there will be no airflow at engine speeds above idle.

To check the air box pressures on an engine with a closed air box drain system, use an air box cover with a tapped hole for a fitting.

FIG. 3 — Cylinder Head Mounting

To make the cylinder heads more tolerant of abnormal coolant temperature, relief areas have been cast in the current four valve cylinder heads. These stress relief areas, which are shaped like a «dog bone», are cast in the fire deck of the cylinder head between the cylinders (Fig. 7). For visual identification of the current cylinder head on an engine, two bosses (at a later date a raised boss the shape of a «dog bone») are cast on the fuel manifold side of the three cylinder heads (6V engines) and a raised boss the shape of a «dog bone» is cast on the exhaust manifold side of the four (8V engines) and six (12V engines) cylinder heads

FIG. 4 — Coolant Passages Around Exhaust Valves and Fuel Injectors (C 1980 General Motors Corp.

FIG. 5 — Water Nozzles in Two-Valve Cylinder Head

(Fig. 8). The current service cylinder heads which include the stress relief areas in the fire deck also include the nonmagnetic turbo exhaust valve inserts identified by the letter «T» stamped on the face of the cylinder head.

NOTE: Production non-turbocharged cylinder heads include cast steel exhaust valve seat inerts which have magnetic qualities. An easy method for determining the type of exhaust valve seat insert in a cylinder head is with a magnet. The magnet will be attracted to the non-turbo insert (will stick). The magnet will not be attracted to the turbo insert, it will jump to the cyliner head.

Cylinder Head Maintenance

The engine operating temperature should be maintained between 160 ‘-185 °F (71 °-85 °C) and the cooling system should be inspected daily and kept full at all times. The cylinder head fire deck will overheat and crack in a short time if the coolant does not cover the fire deck surface. When necessary, add coolant slowly to a hot engine to avoid rapid cooling which can result in distortion and cracking of the cylinder head (and cylinder block).

FIG. 6 — Water Nozzles in Four-Valve Cylinder Head

Abnormal operating conditions or neglect of certain maintenance items may cause cracks to develop in the cylinder head. If this type of failure occurs, a careful inspection should be made to find the cause and avoid a recurrence of the failure.

Unsuitable water in the cooling system may result in lime and scale formation and prevent proper cooling. The cylinder head should be inspected around the exhaust valve water jackets. This can be done by removing an injector tube. Where inspection discloses such deposits, use a reliable non-corrosive scale remover to remove the deposits from the cooling system of the engine, since a similar condition will exist in the cylinder block and other components of the engine. Refer to Section 13.3 for engine coolant recommendations.

Loose or improperly seated injector tubes may result in compression leaks into the cooling system and also result in loss of engine coolant. The tubes must be tight to be properly seated. Refer to Section 2.1.4.

Overtightened injector clamp bolts may also cause head cracks. Always use a torque wrench to tighten the bolts to the specified torque.

FIG. 7 — Current Four Valve Cylinder Head

Other conditions which may eventually result in cylinder head cracks are:

1.Excess fuel in the cylinders caused by leaking injectors.

2.Slipping fan belts can cause overheating by reducing air flow through the radiator.

3.Accumulation of dirt on the radiator core which will reduce the flow of air and slow the transfer of heat from the coolant to the air.

4.Inoperative radiator cap which will result in loss of coolant.

Remove Cylinder Head

Certain service operations on the engine require removal of the cylinder head:

1.Remove and install pistons.

2.Remove and install cylinder liners.

3.Remove and install exhaust valves.

4.Remove and install exhaust valve guides.

5.Recondition exhaust valves and valve seat inserts.

6.Replace fuel injector tubes.

7.Install new cylinder head gaskets and seals.

8.Remove and install camshaft.

Due to the various optional and accessory equipment used, only the general steps for removal of the cylinder head are covered. If the engine is equipped with accessories that affect cylinder head removal, note the position of each before disconnecting or removing them to ensure correct reinstallation. Then remove the cylinder head as follows:

1.Drain the cooling system.

2.Disconnect the exhaust piping at the exhaust manifold. On turbocharged engines, remove the connections from the exhaust manifold to the turbocharger. Remove the turbocharger, if necessary.

3.Disconnect the fuel lines at the cylinder head.

4.Loosen the hose clamps and remove the hose attached to the thermostat housing cover.

5.Loosen the hose clamps at each end of the water bypass tube and remove the tube.

6.Remove the thermostat housing assembly.

7.Clean and remove the valve rocker cover and governor cover.

8.Disconnect the fuel rod from the injector control tube lever and the governor. Remove the fuel rod.

9.Loosen the fuel rod cover hose clamps. Then slide the hose up on the fuel rod cover toward the governor.

10.Remove the exhaust manifold.

11.Remove the water manifold, if used.

12.Remove the injector control tube and brackets as an assembly.

13.If the cylinder head is to be disassembled for reconditioning of the exhaust valves and valve seat inserts or for a complete overhaul, remove the fuel pipes and injectors at this time. Refer to Section 2.1 or 2.1.1 for removal of the injectors.

14.Check the torque on the cylinder head bolts and stud nuts (if used) before removing the head. Then remove the bolts and stud nuts (if used) and lift the cylinder head from the cylinder block with tool

FIG. 9 Removing or Installing Cylinder Head with Tool J 22062-01

J 22062-01 (Fig. 9). If interference is encountered between the rear end of the right-bank cylinder head and any of the flywheel housing attaching bolts, loosen the bolts. Checking the torque before removing the head bolts and’ examining the condition of the compression gaskets and seals after the head is removed may reveal the causes of any cylinder head problems.

NOTE: When placing the cylinder head assembly on a bench, protect the cam followers and injector spray tips, if the injectors were not

FIG. 10 — Cylinder Head Mounted on Holding

Plates (J 3087-01)

FIG. 11 — Cylinder Head Prepared for Pressure Testing using Tool J 28454

removed, by resting the valve side of the head on 2 » wood blocks.

15.Place the cylinder head on its side and remove the engine lifter brackets and gaskets. Then attach the cylinder head holding plates J 3087-01 (Fig. 10) to raise the head above the work bench.

16.Remove and discard the cylinder head compression gaskets, oil seals and water seals.

17.After the cylinder head has been removed, drain the lubricating oil from the engine. Draining the oil at this time will remove any coolant that may have worked its way to the oil pan when the head was removed.

Disassemble Cylinder Head

If complete disassembly of the cylinder head is necessary, refer to Sections 1.2.1 and 1.2.2 for removal of the exhaust valve and injector operating mechanism.

Clean Cylinder Head

After the cylinder head has been disassembled and all of the plugs (except cup plugs) have been removed, thoroughly steam clean the head. If the water passages are heavily coated with scale, remove the injector tubes and water nozzles. Then clean the cylinder head in the same manner as outlined for cleaning the cylinder block (Section 1.1).

Clean all of the cylinder head components with fuel oil and dry them with compressed air.

Inspect Cylinder Head

1. Before a cylinder head can be reused, it must be inspected for cracks. Five prescribed methods for checking a cylinder head for cracks are as follows:

NOTE: If any method reveals cracks, the cylinder head should be considered unacceptable for reuse.

Magnetic Particle Method: The cylinder head is magnetized and then covered with a fine magnetic powder or solution. Flaws, such as cracks, form a small local magnet which cause the magnetic particles in the powder or solution to gather there, effectively marking the crack. The cylinder head must be demagnetized after the test.

FIG. 12 — Checking Bottom Face of Cylinder Head

Fluorescent Magnetic Particle Method: This method is similar to the magnetic particle method, but is more

sensitive since it uses fluorescent magnetic particles which glow under a «Black Light». Very fine cracks, especially on discolored or dark surfaces, that may be missed using the Magnetic Particle Method will be disclosed under the «Black Light».

Fluorescent Penetrant Method: A highly fluorescent liquid penetrant is applied to the area in question. Then the excess penetrant is wiped off the surface and

the part is dried. A developing powder is then applied which helps to draw the penetrant out of the flaws by capillary action. Inspection to find the crack is carried out using a «Black Light».

Non-Fluorescent Penetrant Method: The test area being inspected is sprayed with «Spotcheck» or Dye Check. Allow one to thirty minutes to dry. Remove the excess surface penetrant with clean cloths premoisened with cleaner / remover. DO NOT flush surface with cleaner / remover because this will impair -sensitivity. Repeat this procedure with additional wipings until residual surface penetrant has been removed. Shake developer thoroughly until agaitator rattles. Invert spray can and spray short bursts to clear valve. Then spray this developer film evenly over the test area being inspected. Allow developer film to dry completely before inspecting. Recommended developing time is 5 to 15 minutes.

The above four methods provide basic instructions. Specific details should be obtained from the supplier of the equipment or material.

Pressure Check Method: Pressure check the cylinder head as follows:

a.To seal off the water holes in the cylinder head. assemble tool set J 28454 as follows (Fig. 11):

FIG. 13 — Minimum Distance Between Top and

Bottom Faces of Cylinder Head

1.Install the rubber stoppers on the bridges.

a.Large stoppers are installed on the long center bridge feet opposite the notch and on the long end bridge feet closest together.

b.Small stoppers are installed opposite the large stoppers on center bridge and end bridge feet and on all short bridges.

2.Install the necessary parts, loosely, on the cylinder head.

3.Tighten the hold down bolts until the stoppers start to distort. A 5 Ib-ft (7 Nm) torque is usually sufficient.

NOTE: Do not overtighten the hold down bolts. The rubber stopper could distort enough to seal both the inner and outer diameter of the water nozzles. If the outer diameter is sealed, a leak from the outer diameter would not be detected.

4. Install the air supply plate.

NOTE: Do not hook onto the pressure checking tool, or any part of it, to move the cylinder head from one location to another. If this is done it could result in permanent damage to the tool.

b.Install scrap or dummy injectors to ensure proper seating of the injector tubes. Dummy injectors may be made from old injector nuts and bodies —the injector spray tips are not necessary. Tighten the injector clamp bolts to 20-25 Ib-ft (27-34 Nm) torque.

c.Apply 40 psi (276 kPa) air pressure to the water jacket. Then immerse the cylinder head in a tank of water, previously heated to 180°-200 F (82′ -93°C), for about twenty minutes to thoroughly heat the head. Observe the water in the tank for bubbles which indicate a leak or crack. Check for leaks at the top and bottom of the injector tubes, oil gallery, exhaust ports, fuel manifolds and at the top and bottom of the cylinder head.

d.Relieve the air pressure and remove the cylinder head from the water tank. Then remove the palates, gaskets and injectors and dry the head with compressed air.

2.Check the bottom (fire deck) of the cylinder head f(or flatness:

FIG. 14 — Correct Installation of Water Nozzles

in Two-Valve Cylinder Head

a.Use a hedvy, accurate straight-edge and feeler gages, tool J 3172, to check for transverse warpage at each end and between all cylinders. Also check for longitudinal warpage in six places as shown in Fig. 12. Refer to Table I for maximum allowable warpage.

b.Use the measurements obtained and the limits given in Table I as a guide to determine the

FIG. 15 — Correct Installation of Water Nozzles

in Four-Valve Cylinder Head

advisability of reinstalling the head on the engine or of refacing it. The number of times a cylinder head may be refaced will depend upon the amount of stock previously removed.

c.If the cylinder head is to be refaced, remove the injector tubes prior to machining. Do not remove more metal from the fire deck of any cylinder head below the minimum distance of 3.536″ (Fig. 13).

NOTE: When a cylinder head has been refaced, critical dimensions such as the protrusion of valve seat inserts, exhaust valves, injector tubes and injector spray tips must be checked and corrected. The push rods must also be adjusted to prevent the exhaust valves from striking the pistons after the cylinder head is reinstalled in the engine. Also, deburr the water nozzles.

3.Install new injector tubes (Section 2.1.4) if the old tubes leaked or the cylinder head was refaced.

4.Inspect the exhaust valve seat inserts and valve guides (refer to Section 1.2.2).

5.Inspect the cam follower bores in the cylinder head for scoring or wear. Light score marks may be cleaned up with crocus cloth wet with fuel oil. Measure the bore diameters with a telescope gage and micrometer and record the readings. Measure the diameter of the cam followers with a micrometer. Record and compare the readings of the followers and bores to determine the can follower-to-bore clearances. The clearance must not exceed .006″ with used parts (refer to Section 1.() for specifications). If the bores are excessively scored or worn, replace the cylinder head.

6.Check the water hole nozzles to be sure they are not loose.

If necessary, replace the nozzles as follows:

a.Remove the old nozzles.

b.Make sure the water inlet ports in the cylinder head are clean and free of scale. The water holes at each end of the head may be cleaned up with a 1/2″ drill and the intermediate holes may be cleaned up with a 13/16″ drill. Break the edges of the holes slightly.

c.Press the nozzles in place with the nozzle openings

    ОБЩИЕ СВЕДЕНИЯ
СИСТЕМА DDECI    3
СИСТЕМА DDEC II    5
СИСТЕМЫ DDEC III / IV    6
ОСНОВНЫЕ ТЕХНИЧЕСКИЕ ДАННЫЕ    7
МОДЕЛЬ ДВИГАТЕЛЯ, ЗАВОДСКОЙ НОМЕР И ТАБЛИЧКА ОПЦИЙ    7
ЗАМЕНА И РЕМОНТ    8
РАЗБОРКА ДВИГАТЕЛЯ    8
МОЙКА    8
ПОДГОТОВКА К ПЕРВОМУ ЗАПУСКУ    10
ЗАПУСК    11
    ТЕХНИЧЕСКОЕ ОБСЛУЖИВАНИЕ ДВИГАТЕЛЯ
ЕЖЕДНЕВНОЕ ТЕХОБСЛУЖИВАНИЕ    12
СИСТЕМА СМАЗКИ    13
ТОПЛИВНЫЕ БАКИ    14
ТОПЛИВОПРОВОДЫ    15
СИСТЕМА ОХЛАЖДЕНИЯ    15
ТУРБОНАГНЕТАТЕЛЬ    19
АККУМУЛЯТОРНАЯ БАТАРЕЯ    19
ПРИВОДНЫЕ РЕМНИ    19
ВОЗДУШНЫЙ КОМПРЕССОР    21
ВОЗДУШНЫЙ ФИЛЬТР    21
ФИЛЬТР И НАСОС СИСТЕМЫ ОХЛАЖДЕНИЯ    21
СИСТЕМА ВПУСКА    22
СИСТЕМА ВЫПУСКА    22
ДВИГАТЕЛЬ (МОЙКА ПАРОМ)    22
РАДИАТОР    22
ДАВЛЕНИЕ МАСЛА    22
ГЕНЕРАТОР СИСТЕМЫ ЗАРЯДКИ АККУМУЛЯТОРНОЙ БАТАРЕИ    22
ОПОРЫ СИЛОВОГО АГРЕГАТА    22
ДАВЛЕНИЕ КАРТЕРНЫХ ГАЗОВ    22
МУФТА ВЕНТИЛЯТОРА    23
УТЕПЛИТЕЛИ И УПЛОТНИТЕЛИ    23
МАСЛООТДЕЛИТЕЛЬ СИСТЕМЫ ВЕНТИЛЯЦИИ КАРТЕРА    24
РЕГУЛИРОВКИ ДВИГАТЕЛЯ    24
ИНТЕРКУЛЕР НАПОРНОГО ВОЗДУХА/ВСПОМОГАТЕЛЬНЫЙ НАСОС    24
ТЕПЛООБМЕННИК    24
ТОПЛИВНЫЙ ТЕПЛООБМЕННИК (ОХЛАДИТЕЛЬ ТОПЛИВА)    24
ТОПЛИВНЫЕ ФОРСУНКИ    24
ГАСИТЕЛЬ ВИБРАЦИЙ (ДЕМПФЕР)    24
ГЕНЕРАТОР И ЕГО КРЕПЛЕНИЯ    25
КОМПРЕССОР КОНДИЦИОНЕРА ВОЗДУХА И ЕГО КРЕПЛЕНИЕ    25
ВОЗДУШНЫЙ КОМПРЕССОР И ЕГО КРЕПЛЕНИЕ    25
ПЕРИОДИЧЕСКОЕ ОБСЛУЖИВАНИЕ АВТОМОБИЛЬНЫХ ДВИГАТЕЛЕЙ    25
    СИСТЕМА ЭЛЕКТРОННОГО УПРАВЛЕНИЯ DDEC
ОПИСАНИЕ СИСТЕМЫ    28
ФУНКЦИИ СИСТЕМЫ    28
КОМПОНЕНТЫ СИСТЕМЫ    28
РАСПОЛОЖЕНИЕ КОМПОНЕНТОВ СИСТЕМЫ    32
ДИАГНОСТИКА СИСТЕМЫ    32
ОБЩАЯ ИНФОРМАЦИЯ    32
СЧИТЫВАНИЕ КОДОВ ПРИ ПОМОЩИ КОНТРОЛЬНЫХ ЛАМП    33
СЧИТЫВАНИЕ КОДОВ ПРИ ПОМОЩИ ДИАГНОСТИЧЕСКОГО ПУЛЬТА    33
ТАБЛИЦА КОДОВ НЕИСПРАВНОСТЕЙ    34
ПОДГОТОВКА К ПОИСКУ НЕИСПРАВНОСТЕЙ    39
ПОИСК НЕИСПРАВНОСТЕЙ ПО КОДАМ    42
ЭЛЕКТРИЧЕСКИЕ РАЗЪЕМЫ И СХЕМЫ    50
ЭЛЕКТРОННЫЙ МОДУЛЬ    50
РАЗЪЕМ ЖГУТА ПРОВОДОВ ДВИГАТЕЛЯ    51
СХЕМА ЖГУТА ПРОВОДОВ ДВИГАТЕЛЯ    51
РАЗЪЕМ ЖГУТА ПРОВОДОВ ИНТЕРФЕЙСА АВТОМОБИЛЯ    55
СХЕМА ЖГУТА ПРОВОДОВ ИНТЕРФЕЙСА АВТОМОБИЛЯ    56
РАЗЪЕМ И СХЕМА ЖГУТА ПРОВОДОВ ПИТАНИЯ ЕСМ С ОДНИМ ПРЕДОХРАНИТЕЛЕМ    61
РАЗЪЕМ И СХЕМА ЖГУТА ПРОВОДОВ ПИТАНИЯ ЕСМ С ДВУМЯ ПРЕДОХРАНИТЕЛЯМИ    62
РАЗЪЕМ ЖГУТА ПРОВОДОВ КОММУНИКАЦИИ    63
РАЗЪЕМ И СХЕМА ЖГУТА ПРОВОДОВ ФОРСУНКИ    63
РАЗЪЕМ И СХЕМА МОТОРНОГО ТОРМОЗА С ЕСМ    64
ДИАГНОСТИЧЕСКИЙ ПУЛЬТ    66
ФУНКЦИИ ЭЛЕКТРОННОГО МОДУЛЯ    66
БЛОКИРОВКА ФУНКЦИИ    66
ОБЛАСТИ БЛОКИРОВКИ ФУНКЦИИ    66
ПАРОЛЬ БЛОКИРОВКИ ФУНКЦИИ    67
РАБОТА С ДИАГНОСТИЧЕСКИМ ПУЛЬТОМ    67
КОДЫ ДИАГНОСТИКИ    67
ПОСЛЕДОВАТЕЛЬНОСТЬ ОТКЛЮЧЕНИЯ ЦИЛИНДРОВ    67
ОБНОВЛЕНИЕ КАЛИБРОВКИ ФОРСУНКИ    67
ПЕРЕПРОГРАММИРОВАНИЕ КАЛИБРОВКИ    68
ФУНКЦИЯ МОМЕНТАЛЬНОЙ ФИКСАЦИИ    68
ПЕЧАТЬ    68
КОНТРОЛЬНЫЕ ЛАМПЫ    68
ЖЕЛТАЯ КОНТРОЛЬНАЯ ЛАМПА НЕ РАБОТАЕТ    68
ЖЕЛТАЯ КОНТРОЛЬНАЯ ЛАМПА ОСТАЕТСЯ ГОРЕТЬ    69
ЖЕЛТАЯ КОНТРОЛЬНАЯ ЛАМПА БЕСПОРЯДОЧНО И ПРЕРЫВИСТО МИГАЕТ    69
ЖЕЛТАЯ КОНТРОЛЬНАЯ ЛАМПА ЗАГОРАЕТСЯ НА ВРЕМЯ ДО 5 СЕКУНД    69
ЖЕЛТАЯ КОНТРОЛЬНАЯ ЛАМПА НЕ ЗАГОРАЕТСЯ    69
ПОИСК НЕИСПРАВНОСТЕЙ ПО ПРИЗНАКАМ    69
ДИАГНОСТИЧЕСКОЕ ОБОРУДОВАНИЕ ДЛЯ DDEC IV И DDEC V    70
ОПИСАНИЕ    70
КОДЫ НЕИСПРАВНОСТЕЙ В СИСТЕМЕ DDEC IV    70
КОДЫ НЕИСПРАВНОСТЕЙ В СИСТЕМЕ DDEC V    74
АББРЕВИАТУРЫ И ТЕРМИНЫ    82
    РУКОВОДСТВО ПО РЕМОНТУ
    СНЯТИЕ ДВИГАТЕЛЯ    84
КЛАПАННАЯ КРЫШКА    84
СНЯТИЕ ОБЫЧНОЙ КЛАПАННОЙ КРЫШКИ    85
СНЯТИЕ КЛАПАННОЙ КРЫШКИ С ОСНОВАНИЕМ    85
СНЯТИЕ КЛАПАННОЙ КРЫШКИ С ОСНОВАНИЕМ И ПРОСТАВКОЙ    86
УСТАНОВКА КЛАПАННОЙ КРЫШКИ    86
УСТАНОВКА КЛАПАННОЙ КРЫШКИ С ОСНОВАНИЕМ И ПРОСТАВКОЙ    86
ГОЛОВКА БЛОКА ЦИЛИНДРОВ    88
СНЯТИЕ ГОЛОВКИ БЛОКА ЦИЛИНДРОВ    88
МАСЛЯНЫЕ ТРУБОПРОВОДЫ ТУРБОНАГНЕТАТЕЛЯ    89
ПРОВЕРКА НА ГЕРМЕТИЧНОСТЬ    90
ПРОВЕРКА НА ПЛОСКОТНОСТЬ ГОЛОВКИ БЛОКА    91
УСТАНОВКА ГОЛОВКИ БЛОКА ЦИЛИНДРОВ    92
    БЛОК ЦИЛИНДРОВ    92
ШАТУННО-ПОРШНЕВАЯ ГРУППА    93
СНЯТИЕ ПОРШНЕЙ И ШАТУНОВ    93
РАЗБОРКА    94
ЧУГУННЫЕ ПОРШНИ    94
СТАЛЬНЫЕ ПОРШНИ    94
СБОРКА    95
ЧУГУННЫЕ ПОРШНИ    95
СТАЛЬНЫЕ ПОРШНИ    95
УСТАНОВКА ШАТУНА С ПОРШНЕМ В ДВИГАТЕЛЬ    95
УСТАНОВКА ПОРШНЕЙ В 14 Л ДВИГАТЕЛЬ    97
ПОРШНИ И ПОРШНЕВЫЕ КОЛЬЦА    99
РАЗБОРКА ПОРШНЯ    100
СВОРКА ПОРШНЯ    101
УСТАНОВКА ПОРШНЕВЫХ КОЛЕЦ    102
ШАТУНЫ    102
ШАТУН С ЗАКРЫТОЙ ГОЛОВКОЙ    103
ПРОВЕРКА ШАТУНА    104
ПРОВЕРКА ПОДШИПНИКОВ    104
ГИЛЬЗЫ ЦИЛИНДРОВ    104
СНЯТИЕ ГИЛЬЗЫ    105
ОЧИСТКА И ПРОВЕРКА ГИЛЬЗ ЦИЛИНДРОВ    106
УСТАНОВКА    106
КОРЕННЫЕ ПОДШИПНИКИ КОЛЕНВАЛА    107
СНЯТИЕ    108
ПРОВЕРКА КОРЕННЫХ ПОДШИПНИКОВ    110
УСТАНОВКА    111
КОЛЕНЧАТЫЙ ВАЛ    111
СНЯТИЕ КОЛЕНВАЛА    112
ПРОВЕРКА    112
ИЗМЕРЕНИЕ БИЕНИЯ    113
ИЗМЕРЕНИЕ ДИАМЕТРА ШЕЕК    113
МЕТОД С ПРИМЕНЕНИЕМ МАГНИТНЫХ ЧАСТИЦ    114
МЕТОД С ПРИМЕНЕНИЕМ ФЛУОРЕСЦЕНТНЫХ МАГНИТНЫХ ЧАСТИЦ    114
МЕТОД С ПРИМЕНЕНИЕМ ЖИДКОСТИ С ЛЮМИНОФОРОМ    114
УСТАЛОСТЬ ПРИ ИЗГИБЕ    114
УСТАЛОСТЬ ПРИ КРУЧЕНИИ    114
ТРЕЩИНЫ НА КОЛЕНВАЛЕ    115
УСТАНОВКА    115
МАСЛЯНЫЕ УПЛОТНЕНИЯ КОЛЕНВАЛА    116
СНЯТИЕ ПЕРЕДНЕГО САЛЬНИКА    117
СНЯТИЕ ЗАДНЕГО САЛЬНИКА (ПРИ УСТАНОВЛЕННОМ КОЖУХЕ МАХОВИКА)    118
УПЛОТНЕНИЕ FEDERAL MOGUL    118
УПЛОТНЕНИЕ МАРКИ CR    118
УСТАНОВКА ПЕРЕДНЕГО И ЗАДНЕГО САЛЬНИКА КОЛЕНВАЛА    118
КОЖУХ МАХОВИКА    120
СНЯТИЕ    120
УСТАНОВКА    121
МАХОВИК    121
СНЯТИЕ    121
ПРОВЕРКА    122
УСТАНОВКА    122
ЗАМЕНА ЗУБЧАТОГО ВЕНЦА    123
СНЯТИЕ    123
УСТАНОВКА    123
ШКИВ КОЛЕНВАЛА    123
СНЯТИЕ ШКИВА КОЛЕНВАЛА    124
ПРОВЕРКА    124
УСТАНОВКА    124
ДЕМПФЕР    125
ПРОВЕРКА ДЕМПФЕРА КОЛЕБАНИЙ    126
УСТАНОВКА ДЕМПФЕРА    126
МЕХАНИЗМ ПРИВОДА КЛАПАНОВ И ФОРСУНОК    126
СНЯТИЕ КОРОМЫСЕЛ    128
ОСМОТР    129
УСТАНОВКА    129
РЕГУЛИРОВКА ЗАЗОРОВ КЛАПАНОВ, МОТОРНОГО ТОРМОЗА И ВЫСОТЫ ФОРСУНОК    130
ПОРЯДОК РЕГУЛИРОВКИ КЛАПАНОВ И УСТАНОВКА ВЫСОТЫ ФОРСУНОК    130
КОНТРОЛЬНЫЕ ПАРАМЕТРЫ    130
КЛАПАНЫ, ПРУЖИНЫ, НАПРАВЛЯЮЩИЕ, СЕДЛА КЛАПАНОВ, КОЛПАЧКИ И МЕХАНИЗМЫ ПОВОРОТА КЛАПАНОВ    132
СНЯТИЕ КЛАПАНОВ    133
СНЯТИЕ НАПРАВЛЯЮЩИХ    134
СНЯТИЕ СЕДЛА ВПУСКНОГО И ВЫПУСКНОГО КЛАПАНОВ    134
ПРОВЕРКА КЛАПАНА    134
ПРОВЕРКА ПРУЖИН    135
ПРОВЕРКА НАПРАВЛЯЮЩИХ И СЕДЕЛ    135
УСТАНОВКА СЕДЕЛ ВПУСКНЫХ И ВЫПУСКНЫХ КЛАПАНОВ    135
УСТАНОВКА НАПРАВЛЯЮЩИХ КЛАПАНОВ    136
УСТАНОВКА КЛАПАНА, ПРУЖИНЫ, КОЛПАЧКА И МЕХАНИЗМА ПОВОРОТА КЛАПАНОВ    136
КРЫШКА КАРТЕРА ГРМ    137
СНЯТИЕ КРЫШКИ ГРМ    138
ПРОВЕРКА    140
УСТАНОВКА КРЫШКИ КАРТЕРА ГРМ    140
УСТАНОВКА ШУМОИЗОЛЯЦИИ    142
КАРТЕР ШЕСТЕРЕН ГРМ    142
СНЯТИЕ КАРТЕРА ШЕСТЕРЕН    144
УСТАНОВКА КАРТЕРА ШЕСТЕРЕН    144
ШЕСТЕРНИ МЕХАНИЗМА ГАЗОРАСПРЕДЕЛЕНИЯ И СИНХРОНИЗАЦИЯ ДВИГАТЕЛЯ    147
СИНХРОНИЗАЦИЯ ШЕСТЕРЕН    148
ПРОВЕРКА СИНХРОНИЗАЦИИ ДВИГАТЕЛЯ    149
ЗАЗОР ЗАЦЕПЛЕНИЯ ШЕСТЕРНИ ВСПОМОГАТЕЛЬНОГО ПРИВОДА И ГЛАВНОЙ ШЕСТЕРНИ    152
ЗАЗОР ЗАЦЕПЛЕНИЯ ГЛАВНОЙ ШЕСТЕРНИ И ШЕСТЕРНИ ВОДЯНОГО НАСОСА    152
ЗАЗОР ЗАЦЕПЛЕНИЯ ГЛАВНОЙ ШЕСТЕРНИ И ШЕСТЕРНИ ВОЗДУШНОГО КОМПРЕССОРА    152
СБОРКА    152
УПЛОТНЕНИЕ УПОРНОГО ДИСКА РАСПРЕДВАЛА    153
СНЯТИЕ    153
УСТАНОВКА    154
РАСПРЕДВАЛ И ПОДШИПНИКИ РАСПРЕДВАЛА    154
СНЯТИЕ РАСПРЕДВАЛА И ПОДШИПНИКОВ    156
УСТАНОВКА РАСПРЕДВАЛА    159
ПРОВЕРКА ОСЕВОГО ЛЮФТА РАСПРЕДВАЛА    160
УСТАНОВКА    160
КОНТРОЛЬ ФАЗ ГАЗОРАСПРЕДЕЛЕНИЯ    161
ШЕСТЕРНЯ РАСПРЕДЕЛИТЕЛЬНОГО ВАЛА    162
СНЯТИЕ ШЕСТЕРНИ РАСПРЕДВАЛА    163
ПРОВЕРКА    164
УСТАНОВКА    164
ГЛАВНАЯ ШЕСТЕРНЯ И ПРОМЕЖУТОЧНЫЕ ШЕСТЕРНИ РАСПРЕДЕЛИТЕЛЬНОГО ВАЛА    165
СНЯТИЕ ГЛАВНОЙ И ПРОМЕЖУТОЧНОЙ ШЕСТЕРЕН    166
ПРОВЕРКА    166
УСТАНОВКА    167
РЕГУЛИРУЕМАЯ ПРОМЕЖУТОЧНАЯ ШЕСТЕРНЯ    167
СНЯТИЕ    168
ПРОВЕРКА    169
УСТАНОВКА    169
ШЕСТЕРНЯ И ЗУБЧАТОЕ КОЛЕСО КОЛЕНВАЛА    170
СНЯТИЕ    170
ПРОВЕРКА    172
УСТАНОВКА ШЕСТЕРНИ КОЛЕНВАЛА    172
ВСПОМОГАТЕЛЬНЫЙ ПРИВОД    174
СНЯТИЕ    174
РАЗБОРКА    174
ПРОВЕРКА    176
СБОРКА    176
МОТОРНЫЙ ТОРМОЗ    178
СНЯТИЕ МОТОРНОГО ТОРМОЗА (МОДЕЛЬ 790)    180
УСТАНОВКА МОТОРНОГО ТОРМОЗА    181
УСТАНОВКА ЗАЗОРА ВСПОМОГАТЕЛЬНОГО ПОРШНЯ    181
МОТОРНЫЙ ТОРМОЗ    182
    ФОРСУНКИ    183
СНЯТИЕ ФОРСУНКИ    184
РАЗБОРКА    185
ПРОВЕРКА    185
РЕМОНТ    185
УСТАНОВКА ФОРСУНКИ    186
СТАКАН И УПЛОТНИТЕЛЬНОЕ КОЛЬЦО ТОПЛИВНОЙ ФОРСУНКИ    187
УСТАНОВКА ДОПОЛНИТЕЛЬНОГО УПЛОТНЕНИЯ    187
УСТАНОВКА СТАКАНА И УПЛОТНИТЕЛЬНОГО КОЛЬЦА    188
ПРОВЕРКА    189
ТОПЛИВНЫЙ НАСОС    190
СНЯТИЕ    192
РАЗБОРКА    192
ПРОВЕРКА    192
СБОРКА    193
УСТАНОВКА ТОПЛИВНОГО НАСОСА    194
УСТАНОВКА ТОПЛИВНОГО НАСОСА С ПРИВОДОМ ОТ ВОЗДУШНОГО КОМПРЕССОРА    194
ПРИВОД ТОПЛИВНОГО НАСОСА    195
СНЯТИЕ ПРИВОДА    195
УСТАНОВКА ПРИВОДА    195
ТОПЛИВНЫЕ ФИЛЬТРЫ    195
ЗАМЕНА ТОПЛИВНОГО ФИЛЬТРА    196
СНЯТИЕ/УСТАНОВКА    196
ЗАМЕНА ВОДООТДЕЛИТЕЛЯ    197
ТОПЛИВНЫЙ ФИЛЬТР ТОНКОЙ ОЧИСТКИ FUEL PRO 380/380E    197
ТОПЛИВНЫЙ ФИЛЬТР И ВОДООТДЕЛИТЕЛЬ    197
КОНТРОЛЬНЫЙ КЛАПАН СИСТЕМЫ ВОЗВРАТА ТОПЛИВА    198
БЛОК ЭЛЕКТРОННОГО УПРАВЛЕНИЯ (ЕСМ) ДВИГАТЕЛЕМ DDEC III / IV    198
ЗАМЕНА БЛОКА ЭЛЕКТРОННОГО УПРАВЛЕНИЯ DDEC III / IV    198
СНЯТИЕ БЛОКА УПРАВЛЕНИЯ    198
УСТАНОВКА    199
ДАТЧИК ДАВЛЕНИЯ ТУРБОНАДДУВА    199
ДАТЧИК ДАВЛЕНИЯ МАСЛА    200
ДАТЧИК ТЕМПЕРАТУРЫ МАСЛА    200
ДАТЧИК ТЕМПЕРАТУРЫ ВОЗДУХА    200
СНЯТИЕ ДАТЧИКА ТЕМПЕРАТУРЫ ВОЗДУХА    200
ДАТЧИК ТЕМПЕРАТУРЫ ОХЛАЖДАЮЩЕЙ ЖИДКОСТИ    200
ДАТЧИК ЧАСТОТЫ ВРАЩЕНИЯ    200
ДАТЧИК ПОЛОЖЕНИЯ КОЛЕНВАЛА    201
ДАТЧИК УРОВНЯ ОХЛАЖДАЮЩЕЙ ЖИДКОСТИ    201
ДАТЧИК ТЕМПЕРАТУРЫ ТОПЛИВА    201
МОМЕНТЫ ЗАТЯЖКИ    201
    СИСТЕМА СМАЗКИ    202
МАСЛЯНЫЙ НАСОС    202
СНЯТИЕ МАСЛЯНОГО НАСОСА    202
РАЗБОРКА    203
СБОРКА    203
УСТАНОВКА    204
КЛАПАН РЕГУЛИРОВКИ ДАВЛЕНИЯ МАСЛА    205
СНЯТИЕ    205
РАЗБОРКА    205
СБОРКА    205
УСТАНОВКА    206
РЕДУКЦИОННЫЙ КЛАПАН ДАВЛЕНИЯ МАСЛА    206
МАСЛЯНЫЙ ФИЛЬТР    206
ОПОРА МАСЛЯНЫХ ФИЛЬТРОВ    206
ТЕРМОРЕГУЛИРУЮЩИЙ КЛАПАН    207
МАСЛЯНЫЙ ОХЛАДИТЕЛЬ    207
МАСЛЯНЫЙ ЩУП    208
МАСЛЯНЫЙ ПОДДОН    208
СНЯТИЕ МАСЛЯНОГО ПОДДОНА    209
УСТАНОВКА    209
СИСТЕМА ВЕНТИЛЯЦИИ КАРТЕРА    209
СНЯТИЕ    210
УСТАНОВКА    210
    СИСТЕМА ОХЛАЖДЕНИЯ    211
ВОДЯНОЙ НАСОС    211
СНЯТИЕ И РАЗБОРКА ВОДЯНОГО НАСОСА    212
УСТАНОВКА    216
ТЕРМОСТАТ    216
СНЯТИЕ ТЕРМОСТАТОВ    216
ТЕМПЕРАТУРА НАЧАЛА ОТКРЫТИЯ И ПОЛНОГО ОТКРЫТИЯ    217
ВЕНТИЛЯТОР    217
СНЯТИЕ СТУПИЦЫ ВЕНТИЛЯТОРА    219
УСТАНОВКА    219
РАДИАТОР    219
    ВОЗДУШНАЯ СИСТЕМА    219
ВОЗДУШНЫЙ ФИЛЬТР    219
ВОЗДУШНЫЙ СЕПАРАТОР    220
ВПУСКНОЙ КОЛЛЕКТОР    220
СНЯТИЕ ВПУСКНОГО КОЛЛЕКТОРА    220
УСТАНОВКА ВПУСКНОГО КОЛЛЕКТОРА    221
ТУРБОКОМПРЕССОР    221
СНЯТИЕ    223
РАЗБОРКА    224
ПРОВЕРКА    224
СНЯТИЕ ПРИВОДА ПЕРЕПУСКНОГО КЛАПАНА    226
УСТАНОВКА ПРИВОДА    226
УСТАНОВКА ПЕРЕПУСКНОГО КЛАПАНА    226
СБОРКА ТУРБОКОМПРЕССОРА    226
УСТАНОВКА    227
ПРОМЕЖУТОЧНЫЙ ВОЗДУХООХЛАДИТЕЛЬ    227
ВЫПУСКНОЙ КОЛЛЕКТОР    227
СНЯТИЕ ВЫПУСКНОГО КОЛЛЕКТОРА    228
УСТАНОВКА ВЫПУСКНОГО КОЛЛЕКТОРА    229
    ЭЛЕКТРООБОРУДОВАНИЕ    230
ГЕНЕРАТОР    230
СНЯТИЕ ГЕНЕРАТОРА    230
УСТАНОВКА ГЕНЕРАТОРА    230
АККУМУЛЯТОРНАЯ БАТАРЕЯ    232
СНЯТИЕ    232
УСТАНОВКА    232
СТАРТЕР    232
СНЯТИЕ СТАРТЕРА    233
УСТАНОВКА    233
ПРИВОД ТАХОМЕТРА    233
ВАЛ ОТБОРА МОЩНОСТИ    234
ВОЗДУШНЫЙ КОМПРЕССОР    235
СНЯТИЕ КОМПРЕССОРА    235
УСТАНОВКА    236
СПЕЦИФИКАЦИИ    236
БЛОК ЦИЛИНДРОВ (РАЗМЕРЫ В ММ)    236
ГИЛЬЗА    236
ПОРШЕНЬ И КОЛЬЦА    236
ПОРШЕНЬ И КОЛЬЦА (ДВИГАТЕЛЬ 14 Л)    237
КОЛЕНЧАТЫЙ ВАЛ    237
ШАТУННЫЕ ПОДШИПНИКИ    237
КОРЕННЫЕ ПОДШИПНИКИ    237
РАПРЕДЕЛИТЕЛЬНЫЙ ВАЛ    237
ПОДШИПНИКИ РАСПРЕДЕЛИТЕЛЬНОГО ВАЛА    237
ШЕСТЕРНЯ РАСПРЕДЕЛИТЕЛЬНОГО ВАЛА    237
ШЕСТЕРНЯ КОЛЕНЧАТОГО ВАЛА    238
ГЛАВНАЯ ШЕСТЕРНЯ    238
СЕДЛА ВЫПУСКНЫХ КЛАПАНОВ    238
ВПУСКНЫЕ КЛАПАНЫ    238
ВЫПУСКНЫЕ КЛАПАНЫ    238
НАПРАВЛЯЮЩИЕ КЛАПАНОВ    238
КОРОМЫСЛА И ОСИ    238
РОЛИКИ КОРОМЫСЕЛ    238
МОМЕНТЫ ЗАТЯЖКИ    238
    КАТАЛОГ ДЕТАЛЕЙ ДВИГАТЕЛЯ ДЕТОЙТ ДИЗЕЛЬ СЕРИИ 60
МОДЕЛИ И СЕРИЙНЫЕ НОМЕРА ДВИГАТЕЛЕЙ    240
ТАБЛИЦА СООТВЕТСТВИЯ НОМЕРОВ МОДЕЛЕЙ И СЕРИЙНЫХ НОМЕРОВ ДВИГАТЕЛЕЙ НОМЕРАМ ГРУПП И ТИПАМ ИСПОЛЬЗУЕМЫХ В НИХ ДЕТАЛЕЙ    241
КАТАЛОГ ДЕТАЛЕЙ    254